A Week in the West Country
July/August 2002
Crew: Gerry Keegal (Trip)
Lynda (week)
Part One – Getting There
Friday 19th July
After much forethought and planning the day arrived, we
had sorted out the autohelm, made the passage plan and got business organised to
allow an early start to the weekend. Arriving at Ginns by 5:30 in a minicab was
an outright luxury enabling us to put Alize on the pier, get organised and make
final preparations in time to have an excellent meal courtesy of Robert and his
colleagues.
Saturday
Although we got boxed in by a stinkboat the owner turned
out to be charming and was up ready to go at 6:30 in the morning and let us out
– what an example! We were able to leave on time at 07:00 without incident
feeling very positive about the trip as we were armed with a weather forecast of
light winds from the North – ideal, beam reaching and just as well as we were
short crewed. In reality the easterlies of Friday gave way to quite strong
westerlies, fortunately with sunny conditions.
The sail down the Solent was as good as it gets, moderately
windy, bright sunshine and few people about at that time. We soon got to the
busy river at Newtown then past the crowded harbour at Yarmouth on a fast close
reach. Hard on the wind we passed Hurst where we were able to ease off on a
broader reach up the Needles Channel passing Alum 
and
the other bays in glorious early morning sunshine. Unfortunately at Bridge it
all came to an end, as we had to go WSW, straight into the wind to make a course
to clear Portland Bill.
This next leg was a slog on the wind all the way, enduring
les than ideal conditions over St Albans Ledge and the approaches to the Bill
where it got quite rough. Our strategy, as usual was to fight the last two hours
of foul tide to Hurst giving us six hours to get past the Bill. We would then
have a spell of foul tide followed by fair going across Lyme Bay where it didn’t
matter too much and, with luck, this would get past Start Point before the tide
went against us again.
Things, as often do in sailing, did not go quite according
to plan. The strong westerlies delayed progress even though we were motor
sailing for much of the time so we arrived off the Bill in some bumpy conditions
just as the tide turned against us. It seemed like an eternity with the Bill
abeam but we eventually saw it recede, this took most of the late afternoon and
early evening. The good news was that the wind then freed just enough for us to
maintain our course across the Bay on one tack. This turned out to be a glorious
sail once the tide had turned and the worst of the seas settled down. It was a
good force 5 which powered us through the seas making great progress when the
tide turned. Day turned into night and initially we had excellent visibility
with brilliant moonshine. This was a real advantage as there was a great deal of
coastal traffic to contend with although not many yachts. Later the moon set
allowing us to see a myriad of small stars that were not visible earlier amongst
the usual constellations.
Sunday
Torbay became clear after a brief period with no land in
sight, fleetingly we could see the loom of Start Point as well as Portland, but
only briefly. The good times again had to come to an end as we neared Start
Point. Passing took an age whilst the dawn broke and the daylight gradually got
stronger, eventually we could see Salcombe to the north of us and we could tack
towards the great mass of Bolt Head. There was then no option but motor sailing
on to Plymouth, as we had to make the harbour before it closed for the Power
Boat Championships. The seas flattened out as we got up to Bigbury Bay, making
it as pleasant as it could be with the engine on whilst passing Burgh Island,
brilliantly lit by the sun. On past the familiar headlands above Newtown Ferris
we have walked, past the entrance to the river and ultimately past the Mewstone
rock.
From then it was only a short motor into the harbour where
we soon got the sails down, refuelled and moored at Queen Anne’s Battery where
we retired to the Royal Western for lunch to celebrate an excellent passage
after a welcome shower. In all we made 120 miles (approx) in 28 hours, only 2
hours over the plan of 26hrs which shows that a 5kn assumed speed is a good
choice.
Part Two – Cornwall
Saturday 27th July
It’s
a delight to go back to Plymouth and return by train – so relaxing and such a
beautiful view, especially the seaside stretch from Exeter to Teignmouth. In no
time at all we were back at the Royal Western having lunch again before setting
off to stock Alize up with stores for the next week. After a walk around the
busy Barbican we had a quiet dinner at Chandlers, the bistro in the Marina
complex
Sunday
The passage plan calls for a relaxed start, which is very
civilised, the tide have got themselves well organised for the trip. There is a
west going tide from 11am onwards which means that when we want to return it
will be east going – perfect!
As forecast it is bright and sunny with a light westerly,
right on the nose as usual! Motoring out towards Rame Head is a joy, seeing the
harbour disappearing behind is rather satisfying, it gives a real sense of
leaving for a passage. Sails are soon up and the autohelm engaged so there is
not much more to do than read the papers, whilst still keeping a watch of
course! The wind tries to pick up but there is not enough to sail in, we try but
only make 2kn, which would never get us the 40 miles to Helford River, so it’s
the Iron sail once more. Lunch is a bright interlude, a proper salad and
mushroom tart washed down with a bottle of wine, suitable chilled, of course.
We
head off shore on the rumb line to Helford with Dodman point in the distance. We
pass south of Fowey in the afternoon, the daymark clearly visible in the
distance then steer between the yellow buoys off Dodman Head. All easy passage
making so far, it couldn’t last. The wind frees a bit and strengthens allowing
us to sail for a while then it all changes, the distant coast start to disappear
and the headlands start to be covered in mist.
Surprisingly soon we are in really quite thick fog, such a
contrast from the easy passage so far. We quickly put on more clothes, oily tops
and life jackets as the temperature plummets. Reducing speed we grope our way
forward, foghorn at the ready. The radar really comes into it’s own and is an
invaluable aid. The waters are very crowded, especially as we get closer to
Falmouth. It correctly identifies lost yachts and a big fishing boat,
stationary, dead ahead. Off St Anthony’s Head it is a bit eerie, slightly scary,
with the mournful sound of the foghorn by the lighthouse to the north and
another great hoot dead ahead. It’s a large ship leaving Falmouth, we are very
close, can’t see it, but can track it on the radar going south. I decide that
the best option is to remain on the same heading and maintain course for Helford,
the wide estuary being preferable to enter than a crowded harbour with several
turns and obstacles in thick fog. The downside is that we are constantly
crossing yachts looking lost, heading north, lookouts straining for something to
see. Fortunately off the estuary with a few cables to go the fog clears which is
just as well as the ferry departs behind us causing chaos. We are able to see
the funnel top above the fog whilst the hull remains hidden, quite surreal.
It
doesn’t take long to find a vacant berth even though most are occupied; the
mooring officer suggests a suitable one. With the huge chain tied securely to
the bow we feel very safe once more and retire below for an excellent
three-course meal. We have lobster terrine, shanks of lamb and a cheese board
accompanied by some equally excellent white and red wine.
A highlight of the evening is the silence broken only by
the sound of hymns being sung at Port Navas, we find out later that it is a
“Carolaire” as part of the regatta.. There is a brass band, the bass notes carry
clearly and we can just make out the lines of seated participants on Oyster
quay. It’s delightful being in such a wonderful spot and a real treat to hear
the singing across the water whilst we read in the cockpit.
Monday
The night is stunningly quiet but by eight o’clock the
moorings are disturbed by what seems to be an endless succession of outboard
motors buzzing about to and fro. It’s a wonderful morning without a cloud in the
sky; I try to capture it in a sketch but am more successful with the coffee and
croissants for breakfast. Later we move to a proper visitors buoy and inflate
the dingy.
We head for Port Navas to find out what was going on and
have lunch; its not far up the creek and looks very festive with flags and
bunting all along the quayside to celebrate the regatta. After a short walk we
have some really fresh crab sandwiches and some excellent Sharps bitter at the
little Yacht Club. There is a Moody 31 alongside; apparently they came in with 6
ft of water at high tide so we forget about joining them. Annoyingly as we try
to return a great lump of seaweed gets wound round the propeller of the dingy
outboard and causes the shear pin to go; it was quite a row back to the boat in
order to fix it!
Not
wanting to do anything too active as the crew is a bit under the weather we set
off for Helford Passage by tender and a walk along the coast to Durgan – its
really beautiful rolling hills with magic beaches between them. The sun is
strong so its really hot in its rays but deliciously cool in the glades. Having
followed the path just past Durgan we arrive at the entrance to Trebah Gardens,
which cannot be missed, its wonderful. The combination of an estate full of
exotic ferns as tropical plants with a valley smothered in colourful Hydrangeas
is stunning.
Returning to the tender we stop off for a quick drink and
watch the people on the beach enjoying themselves, perfect relaxation! After
picking up our clothes we carry on to the other side to the Yacht Club which is
a prominent Scandinavian style building near the village of Helford for a
shower. Just as the sun disappears the mist rolls in as the previous evening so
we hurry back not wanting to have difficulty finding the boat.
Tuesday
Another quiet night, only disturbed by a short burst of
rain. After breakfast and a quick sketch we drop the mooring and set off for
Falmouth. Its only 4 miles but our timing is such tat we leave in sunshine,
travel in the rain and arrive in the sun again. Not much wind so it’s a short
motor passed a fleet of International 14’s trying to start a championship race
and on through the entrance past the rock and the port facilities.
Port
Pendennis is our choice so that we are close to the town, with easy mooring and
good facilities. The Town pier is popular as usual, they are already moored
three deep, and Falmouth marina is well out of town. The new outer marina is
fine but the coast is a building site – they are still constructing the new
Maritime Museum, which will be great next year. We are moored in good company,
next to a super yacht “Fidel”, 33 meters long from New Zealand and now stuck
with hydraulic problems
The first priority is lunch at the Royal Cornwall – not a
disappointment, great food and beer, company very geriatric. We feel very much
out of it in our sailing clothes.
The afternoon is an interesting visit to Pendennis Castle
seen so many times from the sea. A woman we stopped for directions says it’s “a
long walk” but it wasn’t really and was well worth seeing. There is a whole
range of fortifications ranging from a Tudor castle with its gun deck to a World
War II observation post and gun battery. Lots of interesting things such as in
1900 there was a network of mines across the entrance set off automatically by
sighting telescopes using electric wiring – hi tech stuff!
The evening is completed by a visit to the Chain Locker on
the Quay where we have some traditional ale amidst all the marine artefacts that
are reminiscent of the Classic boat festival to be held in three weeks time.
Wednesday
The day starts off well and a walk is planned to go from
Penryn to Pandora’s Inn via Mylor. The taxi to Penryn works fine but we are soon
in pouring rain and only get as far as Flushing before we seek shelter. What
there was of the walk was really pretty, all creeks and old boats. Flushing is
nice enough but only really for pubs; after concluding the rain is set in for
the day we catch the ferry back to Falmouth – shame!
The afternoon is spent pottering around in the many
bookshops and antique shops of Falmouth, the maritime books are especially good.
The evening is a bit lively as the Royal Princess who has been alongside us on
the pier opposite leaves accompanied by an entourage of tugs and the
harbourmaster – quite an operation
Dinner is at “Hunkey Dory” a new restaurant with a modern
feel and excellent food, especially fish. A delightful evening which makes up
for a disappointing day.
Thursday
We set off for Fowey after breakfast at about 9:30, just
after another liner comes in. We motor out as far as St Antony’s Head and regret
not putting the sails up in the relative calm of the harbour. The wind was about
20kn from the North East, right on the nose. Worse, the waves had built up and
it was really quite rough which was the biggest problem. We seem to be fated –
beating all the time! Unfortunately Alize doesn’t handle 15-20kn winds close
hauled very well. Below that the Yankee is fine, above that the staysail and
reefed main work well. With regret and cursing our misfortune we are resigned to
yet more motor sailing with the staysail and one reef in the main. Fortunately
the first hour was the worst, after that it got better with the sea and wind
easing. Finally after Dodman Point we were rewarded with a fine sail as the
wind dropped to 15kn and backed just enough to be able to make Fowey just off
the wind, even the sea had moderated. After an hour of splendid sailing the
rigours of the start was history, even for the crew and we were entering the
estuary passin the daymark on the Gribbin to port. The entrance to Fowey is
magical; rolling hills covered in little houses all different brilliant colours
in the sunshine.
We
are soon moored just off the Royal Fowey Yacht Club on the other side of the
river and have lunch. This is the best pastie we have ever had; bought in
Plymouth from a woman who made them in the shop and insisted that we re-heated
them properly – 30 mins in a cool oven.
It was really hot in the afternoon so it was time for a
read before going into town. The bookshop there turns up a gem – The Glenans
Manual of Sailing. I had been searching for this out of print classic for some
time; it was a fine 1976 copy in excellent condition.
Fowey is always a delightful place to be, there is little
need to do much to enjoy it when the weather is so good. Tea at the Fowey Hotel
provides the opportunity to enjoy outstanding views across the River. The square
another and back on Alize as night falls the floodlight church and lights of the
many houses over the hillside make us thankful we decided to come again.
Friday
It’s
the end of the holiday, we feel relaxed, Lynda’s leg means no long walks so we
decide on an easy lay day in this delightful spot. After breakfast we sort out a
few things such as getting a small ladder to enable us to board the dingy more
easily. We then set off for Polruan to have a walk through the village and round
the headlands. Views are stunning, the bright sun and cloudless sky make the all
the colours brilliant, such a change from grey days. The village still has that
backwater, lost in time, feel which is particularly evident when we listen to
the local banter in the village shop. Its impossible to pass the Lugger without
going inside so he have a couple of excellent pints of St Austell Brewery’s
Tinners, its either that or Doom.
Lunch back on the boat is lea surly and after a quick doze
we get on with the never-ending list of jobs that always exists on a yacht.
At 5pm we down tools and head into town for a drink and
shower at the Yacht Club. Surprisingly its quite busy and the food looks good
too. We resist the temptation and eat back on board. A pleasant end to a most
enjoyable day.
Saturday
Dawn is outstanding, bright sun, clear skies, everything
crystal clear across the unruffled waters of the estuary in every direction.
This cannot change the fact that its the last day, so its a quick trip into
town after breakfast and then we are off.
After slipping the mooring we set off into a light North
Westerly. The forecast is cyclonic 
and
that’s exactly what we get; the wind steadily backs all the way round the clock
to the North by the evening. This means that after a patch of motoring in light
winds we get a fine sail from Looe Island East on a beam reach. There was just
enough wind, 10kn, to keep us going at 4-5kn, ideal sailing for the crew. We are
absorbed by the changing coastline as we get gently cooked – we wonder, suntan
or sunburn? Lunch is pasties and we make an exception once again by getting a
few drinks out to accompany them.
This idyllic situation changes just after Rame Head, clouds
appear and the wind drops but it was good while it lasted. By the time we are in
the harbour it’s menacing and at the fuel berth the heavens open up. After three
attempts due to some poor directions from the marina office we moor up in a
quiet spot. It doesn’t take long to tidy the boat up before we have a farewell
dinner at the bistro. A bright interlude, we meet three jolly old types from the
Royal Thames YC who accompanied us from Fowey. They had sailed over from Kinsale
and were quite fun.
Sunday
Early to rise, breakfast and packed the bags. A quick
clean up checking everything is ok and
we get the taxi to the station. The journey back is a pleasure as usual event
though the train is quite full. We are thankful we brought sandwiches – they ran
out!
Overall a great trip not outstanding sailing but we did
make it – over 200 miles in total. A very relaxing and enjoyable week.
