The Thornley
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The Thornley
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We are greeted with a sunny day with light winds and get
away I good spirits soon after 6am. Inevitably the wind is on the nose so it’s
motoring down the Solent with a favourable tide making 7 knots over the ground.
We leave Hurst via the North Channel to avoid the
Bridge but regret this as we miss the tide for some time. We soon get back in
the stream and are passing St Albans head without incident; we go well offshore
and have no trouble with the race. The Dorset coast unfurls like a succession of
postcards in the bright sunshine. Finally the wind veers and builds as forecast
and we have a southerly so it’s a beam reach for the last few hours. Heading for
Weymouth in perfect conditions the crew plucks up enough courage to helm for a
while. We arrive at the harbour entrance at about 3pm and wait by the bridge
which opens at 4pm to let us through into the marina – we wanted peaceful nights
which are often a challenge on the quayside. We soon get the boat sorted out,
have a cup of tea and chat to our neighbours. The marina is just as friendly as
the quay but more relaxed, everyone seems to know each other, apparently its
“the grave of many a West Country trip”.
Dinner at Perry’s is marvellous – a great choice. We
arrive just after the 8:30 bridge
opening and have one of the best tables despite the late booking just after we
arrived in the harbour. The Crab mousse and scallops were excellent starters
then a rather buttery monkfish but lots of wine washed it down. Lots of banter
with a friendly crown of chaps from Notting Hill who had taken a Sigma 33 to
Dartmouth and we on their way back, all very jolly and a pleasant end to a long
day.
Sunday
Unanimous decision to make this a day of rest! All very relaxing, we did a few chores before going to the Royal Dorset YC for lunchtime drinks, a bit empty but pleasant enough. After reading for a while in the afternoon walked down to Nothe stopping off on the way back at Weymouth SC which is a really active dingy club, lots of life. Eventually found our way back to eat onboard and have an early night.
Monday
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We could not set off earlier than 8am which was the first bridge opening, quite a few others had the same idea so it was quite a flotilla that set off out of the harbour and put up sails together before heading south to the Bill. The weather was sunny with a 16-20kn wind from the south. Motoring down to the Bill was “interesting” in quite rough seas; the boats ahead kept disappearing in the 10ft+ waves. It was peculiar just seeing only the masts above the water. The inshore passage was passable but close to the limit with strong wind over tide conditions aggravating an already rough sea. It didn’t last long though ad we were soon able to crack off onto a beam reach across Lyme Bay, which soon calmed down as we left the Bill. This turned out to be a really fast passage and the weather made it really enjoyable; time and the mile went really fast, we went a quarter of the way across in each of three successive hours.
Unfortunately it could not last and eventually the wind
dropped off so we had to motor for the last hour or so until we entered the
marina in Torquay at 4pm, 7 hours for the passage from Weymouth in total! The
staff were really helpful when we arrived meeting us at the
berth to welcome us and take our warps. Torquay has gone upmarket in recent
years and compares well with Weymouth as a destination in its own right.
Weymouth is a real traditional seaside resort – lots of guesthouses, fish and
chips, teashops, donkeys and swing boats on the beach but its appeal is quite
basic. Torquay has tried to be rather smarter, so have the people who go there
now. There are lots of new bistros, Jazz clubs, illuminations and nice
restaurants. The Pavilion is a nice place to be, a terrace for drinks, shops,
portrait painters and lots of interest. After a quick walk around the headland
to stretch our legs we had dinner on board. A perfect, balmy evening, clear &
sunny, band playing as the lights twinkled on and dusk fell- all very peaceful
and pleasant, a satisfying end to a satisfying day.
Tuesday
A lay day so we went to Dartmouth via the ferry to Brixham, then the steam train to Kingswear and finally the lower ferry to the town. All a bit crowded, not the best day to see one of our favourite towns. By chance we made a great discovery, a restaurant called Hooked that made the trip all worthwhile. It had an attractive light, modern décor and served great seafood; usually fully booked we were able to get a table for lunch. The squid in chilli flavoured sesame oil was superb; marinated, cooked then served whole scored with a cross and really tender. Couldn’t resist the deserts, the white chocolate mousse with cardamom biscuits was excellent. Well worth knowing about and only just opened – destined for greatness!
Returning to Torquay we spent much of the evening at the Royal Torbay YC, which was hosting the Laser national championships with hundreds of competitors. All very lively and a contrast to the usual yacht club atmosphere, it must have had something to do with the enormous number of pints of Sunny Ale that were being served.
Wednesday – Eclipse Day
Got up and nipped into town for a few things and noticed a
real air of expectations all round. Oldies had staked their claim to deckchairs,
others a bit of grass, many with thermos flasks. T shirt sellers were doing
little business so were the boat trip sellers unsuccessfully trying to persuade
punters that the view would be better in the bay away from light pollution. The
marina was really active, just like the morning of the round the island race. 
We
had a late breakfast on board just as the eclipse started. Unfortunately it was
rather cloudy so only glimpses of sun could be seen with an increasingly large
bite taken out of it.
Soon it was like a new moon and growing quite dark, just like an intense thunderstorm. Saw several tantalising glimpses of the sun through the cloud cover.
It only got really dark when most of the sun was covered, at least 99%! Suddenly then the line disappeared, the street lights came on and it was quite dark locally although there was some brighter sky in the distance. Everything went quiet for a few moments, the birds were confused and the front look really strange with lights on, full of people, not a storm or a party or in the evening – quite unique. Then horns sounded, maroons went off, everyone cheered as, suddenly, the darkness lifted. It was easy to understand the feelings of people in times gone by that were less informed and more suspicious of such great primeval forces.
A few minutes after totality the spell was lifted, normality returned and everyone went back home. It was difficult to follow that experience; we went over to Brixham for the afternoon then had a very pleasant dinner at the bistro – Number 7 – close to the yacht club.
Thursday
A
slow start to a perfect day ; sunny with a light breeze. Had breakfast of fresh
croissants on deck and got in the last few provisions. We were able to set off
for Salcombe at 11:30 unfortunately the weather was not good for sailing so we
had to motor south to Start point before turning west along the coast. Wonderful
views of Dartmouth, Slapton and the lighthouse. The cliffs and the rolling hills
looked magnificent in the bright sunshine. The entrance to Salcombe is always a
high point for us even if a bit tricky at times– rather like coming home. This
time it was classic – lots of people on the beaches, dinghy’s darting back and
forth. Dorys ploughing along and bigger boats trying to weave a path through it
all. All the houses & hotels looked particularly picturesque arranged around the
hillsides.
The friendly harbourmaster told us that it wasn’t at all full away from the beaches so our fears were unfounded – eclipse fever was either over or hadn’t happen. We anchored well beyond the Bag in a really peaceful spot alongside a point covered in bushy trees looking like masses of broccoli. We were almost on our own, the only noise being bleating sheep that kept us company.
The evening was just as perfect, sitting up on deck with a few drinks the only interruption was a few Solings drifting past in their attempts to race in the last gasps of the on shore breeze. Even this soon died leaving them to return on the tide. It was just as well it was springs with a five-meter range. A peaceful antidote to marina life and a pleasure to be self-sufficient for a change.
Friday
Decided
to go to go to South Sands for a walk along memory lane as the weather had
become somewhat variable. We went by ferry after some rather heavy showers,
which would have been a problem in the inflatable – it was so nice to approach
the familiar bays of North and South Sands as we had in the past. Nothing had
changed; the ferry docks alongside an amphibious vehicle that drives down to
meet us on the sands and drops us off by the lifeboat house at the top of the
beach. South Sands hotel is also just the same as we pass it on the way up
towards the headland. We take the walk I used to run every morning when staying
at the hotel – the lower Courtney walk to Stairhole bay then up the valley and
back along the top returning via the woods. Magic moments abound, wonderful
views of the estuary and the sea mixed with equally wonderful memories of sun,
sand and sailing holidays when the boys were small. This must be the best walk
in England.
We returned on the ferry as soon as we got to the town the rain started again. Only one thing to do – go to a pub until the rain stops! We had a few very agreeable pints in the pub overlooking the quay after which we were able to return with no sign of rain.
Before we had dinner a quite large yacht (36 ft) moored on the outside of the raft, now four boats wide. We asked them to put on shore lines but didn’t insist, regrettably when they argued that it wasn’t necessary. The start of the evening was very peaceful so we didn’t worry about the mooring and had a nice dinner with plenty of wine. Just as we were feeling rather mellow we were abruptly interrupted by a lot of bumping and people from a yacht further out returning to find out that the raft was swinging all over the place due to the tide, which was now really ripping past the pontoon. The inevitable outcome was that we had to spend an hour sorting things out, moral of the story; insist on proper mooring every time!
Saturday
The plan was to meet Chris and Viv in the afternoon so went into the town to get some provisions and thought it strange when they didn’t answer our telephone call so it was no surprise to see them wandering around the creek area. Had a pleasant lunch in a pub then went back to the boat for the afternoon.
It was great to see them again and hear that they were getting on really well after some difficult times. We eventually had dinner in the Spinnaker, which was indifferent but still a wonderful evening due to the company.
Sunday
Three nights in one place was enough and had given us the itch so it was time to move on so we set out in the morning for Newton Ferris. This proved to be an uneventful motor sail, there was not really enough wind to get moving, the only other sails up were yachts motor sailing.
The entry is always “interesting” – wonderful views but a
need to take care. One yacht following us took a short cut and seemed to go
right over the rocks, local knowledge or foolhardiness? We were not going to
take chances. There were no 
moorings
free but pleanty of room on the pontoon so got tied up in time for lunch. This
was an idyllic setting, surrounded by the gently sloping woodlands running down
to the water; lots of boats but little noise, most being unoccupied.
After lunch we went ashore using the small pier in front of what was the Yealm Hotel but now, sadly anonymous holiday flats. We walked into Newton Ferris and as the tide was out could cross over the causeway to Noss Mayo. It was a perfect afternoon so we set out south across the farms to the coast and return along the path around the headlands – wonderful!
Unfortunately arriving back at 5pm we found the tide in and the ferry had closed at 4pm but it wasn’t that far around the estuary and back. We ate at the Yacht Club; the upstairs flat had been converted into an excellent bistro run by a French couple that produced an absolutely first class Mediterranean fish stew.
Monday
Although tempted to stay longer we decided to push on to Falmouth. Setting of in good time as the weather was not that favourable – 4/5 increasing 6 on the nose with showers.
We had to alter course off Plymouth for a submarine HMS
Trenchant who steamed straight out and was reported in the Navy News due to an
unusual blue top.
Plodding on into increasingly difficult conditions the sail became less and less enjoyable. After lunch we became concerned about progress and decided to cut our losses and head for Fowey. It was then a brisk beat across the bay and into the river entrance. This proved to be an inspired move as it was the start of regatta week but despite this there was not problem finding a berth at Pont Pill.
We stayed on board for the first night, as there were fireworks – wonderful! This was a great display, lots of blue starbursts, all going of close by on the quay at the end of Polruan.
Tuesday
The day started out rather wet so we stayed on board for
some time before venturing out into the town in the afternoon to arrange a place
to eat, after much thought chose Food for Thought right on the quay where a band
was to play later that evening. 
At about six we returned ashore to go to the Yacht Club for drinks and a shower. Being regatta week this was a jolly place full of competitors exchanging stories and competitive banter. This was to become a regular backdrop to the stay!
The meal turned out to be superb, very friendly, good ambiance and excellent food. After many evenings on board and in the inflatable it was a treat to take the water taxi for a smart night out. Towards the end of the meal the band started up outside and was first class, a local folk group playing a cross between folk and pop.
Wednesday
It rained again on and off delaying plans for a walk but did eventually clear to leave a fine day. We set off through the town then around the coast to the Gribbin and on to Pokerris. The headlands were marvellous, brilliant views, rolling hills with bright colours in the sunshine overlooked by the landmark. It was flatter along to St Austell Bay and its small village where we arrived just in time to have lunch at the only pub, which looks out over the beach and the ageless scene of holidaymakers enjoying sea and sand.
The return across the fields was a contrast, no sea views, all very rural and peaceful a different aspect leading back to Fowey. Here it was lots of well-appointed bungalows, not the stuff of postcards, it could have been anywhere.
Returning to the boat we ate on board which was most enjoyable the had a short walk around the town to see the festivities which included being able to sit out on the lawn at “The Place” where we were able to listen to the British Airways Brass Band. They were excellent, a varied repertoire of Strauss, Big Band, Sea Shanties and ending with some Proms favourites.
Thursday
The first clear morning for over a week – we make the most of it by going over to Polruan in the tender complete with walking gear. The village is a delight so we linger over a coffee before setting off along Pont Pill to the Mill at the end then uphill to the church, across the fields to the coast and back to Polruan round the headlands and the river. This time we get it right and are in the pub by the quay comfortably for lunch.
The
afternoon across the town is dominated by eager anticipation of the big evening
– the visit of the Red Arrows. After returning on board we watched the working
boats race during the afternoon, not much wind but it was great to see so many
out trying to race for our benefit. They came close, right up the estuary, where
the wind was very fluky even though they would be much better off out to sea.
Right on time the Red Arrows screamed through the estuary right over our mast and up Pont Pill. It was a brilliant display of real precision flying – who could not be impressed? At first it seemed to be a small-scale intimate affaire for the town and those of us with ringside seats afloat. We then noticed that the hills looked a bit different – they were covered in people! It was a totally different experience seeing the display in a small estuary surrounded by hills.
Inevitably the display had to finish and we thought that was the end so we took the water taxi to the town and had a very enjoyable meal in a Chinese restaurant. However half way though our meal the Town Band, all dressed up as Chinese bashed and banged their way past, very colourful! On looking more closely some of them were wearing flying outfits and were the Red Arrows pilots who had flown in by helicopter and joined in still wearing their red overalls. Even better they mixed with the revellers and had a tour round the pubs – it brought a really personal touch to something usually rather remote. They clearly enjoyed being in the town; apparently it was one of their favourite venues.
Friday
Regrettably the last day and we needed to make our way back to Plymouth. First we go back into Fowey under the pretext of some shopping but in reality to delay the inevitable. The tide allowed for a leisurely return so we motored out past the working boats having a real rather than pretend race for the spectators in town. Soon the sails are up and we try to make our way back but the wind is fickle and we have to resort, yet again, to the iron sail for much of the time. Off Rame Head we encounter a confusing set of tugs with a cable laying barge in a very long tow – definitely to be avoided!
We enter Plymouth Sound in bright sunshine – a wonderful
sight and fitting climax to a whole series of stunning views all along the
coast. This competes closely with Dorset coast 
for
the best sail in England. We have a good look at Polperro – there are moorings
for a few yachts in the deepish water off the pierhead, which apparently is very
good. Unfortunately the crew wants to get to Plymouth so we save it for another
day. It doesn’t take long before we are moored on the visitor’s pontoon at Queen
Anne’s Battery – still quite busy after the Fastnet with a few boats remaining.
With just a few hours to spare we go into the town to check out the Yacht Clubs for dinner. Passing through the Barbican we couldn’t resist going round the Plymouth Gin Distillery – this has just been bought by new management and is experiencing quite a revival. All quite interesting, lots of copper and old buildings, the tasting of neat gin makes such an impression we buy a couple of bottles of Navy Strength (extra strong) Gin.
As far as dinner is concerned the Royal Plymouth Corinthian is a real disappointment, despite brilliant views. It’s rather stuffy, unwelcoming and seems well past its best. The Royal Western by contrast was friendly, active and very smart being quite new and part of the marina complex. We have a superb meal in company of many other Yachties after which we read some of the fascinating logbooks over coffee.
Saturday
It may be the last day but we want to make the most of it and have the train ride to look forward to. We visit the National Marine Institute – a fantastic new building with huge tanks showing mountain life at the top of the building, descending to the murky depths with sharks in the basement. We top it off by exploring the Barbican with its many antique shops – quite attractive really.
We
eat up some of the leftovers for lunch, dump the rest and catch a taxi to the
station. Taking the train is a real pleasure, first the countryside then the
wonderful seaside views. The line passes along the coast from Teignmouth through
Dawlish and then up the estuary to Exmouth. Lots of little boats in the
estuary’s, lots of waving children with buckets and spades on the beaches as the
track winds around the coast passing under cliffs through tunnels – a fitting
and enjoyable way to return!
In summary the holiday was a great success, Libeccio proved to be fine in good weather that could be sailed easily single-handed. It’s a shame there was not more sailing but at least we were not storm bound anywhere. The big lesson – for relaxing holiday don’t try t fit in too many destinations!
The Return Trip – Saturday 28th August.
The plan is to return by train to Plymouth meet Kieth Seston there and sail back during the night with Monday, a bank holiday as contingency. Amazingly it all works like clockwork, main due to clement weather – a bright sunny day with little wind.
We get to Plymouth on a rather crowded train, arriving in time for lunch at the Royal Western where we couldn’t resist sitting outside reading some more logbooks – Inspirational! In the afternoon I stock up the boat whilst Julian visits the Marine Institute and Keith joins us at about 4pm after a rather challenging train journey.
We decide to leave without delay, its calm so we motor out, get organised and have dinner whilst underway. It’s a perfect evening for dinner, bit disappointing for sailing yet again. We clear the South Hams before it gets really dark and watch the stars come out whilst we shape a course for the Bill. Soon we get into the routine of watches and have a pleasant motor across Lyme Bay with only a few trawlers for company. These keep us alert by going backwards and forwards in some alarming directions. We make great progress with the tide being favourable in the early part of the night but pay for it in the early morning as we make slow progress around the Bill which stays in sight for hours.
After breakfast it starts to become favourable again and we rip past the Dorset coast well off shore then around Anvil Point and into Poole Bay. By Midday we are up to Hurst where we stop off at Keyhaven for lunch. We try the river but there is not much water and all the moorings are taken – we conclude that the outside is safer in the afternoon the wind at last picks up – typical! We put the kite up for practise, hoisting it using the sock which works well and builds confidence in our ability to manage it short handed. The evening is spent in Lymington before a leisurely sail, (yes a sail!) back to Hamble the next day.
